The Desert does not want you there. It's hot, arid, pointy. It sucks all moisture from you even when you're not sweating. Some of the animals want to eat you and others want to pick your leftover bones. The mountains are loose and steep. Shade is sparce and the February sun can be offensive. Remnants of the past are rusted and ruined, leaving only piecemeal memories in the hands of the narrator. It's a menace.
If you've never been, you should try and go.
When the mountains of west Texas start hovering above the horizon, the eight and a half hour drive from Austin drifts from the mind while countless views peak around every corner luring you into its vastness. Suddenly you're in the ghost town of Terlingua and start seeing signs of life. You can stop in at Desert Sports and visit Mike, the legend behind the trails of Big Bend. He's got long white hair and beard, old steady hands and wears flannel. He seems less like a wizard and more like an undercover sage who will freely give the information but you have to engage it. It was fun listening to he and Vince talk about past events and gave some insight into how the trails came to be. Visit Mike. Listen to him. If you plan to eat at the Starlight Inn, make sure to get in line before the open or there's a good chance you'll be waiting three hours for a seat at joint that once you're inside has you asking yourself when the vampires are going to show up because you've watched From Dusk Til Dawn a whole bunch of times. It's loud and slightly rowdy but still kid friendly, there's live music in the background and the servers are floating effortlessly around without bumping into anything or each-other. I'm convinced that after midnight it's time for them to feed. We didn't stay to find out.
Conrad, Vince and I suited up right from the ranger station after checking in and went on a decent post 8.5 hour drive 16 mile ride, to a sweet defunct mine where the dead, man-made machines lay waste to the living desert and provide colorful contrast for our eyes to enjoy. The chome certainly popped a little brighter out there. It was really crazy finding a tank in the middle of it all and seeing a MFG stamp of Kewanee, IL. Kewanee is as small town three hours from Madison and 25 minutes from the beautiful Quad Cities. When you're out there looking at all this stuff, it's fun to think about just how in the heck the people got that incredibly heavy machinery way out in the desert. I wonder why after everything went belly up they didn't haul it out. The cactus and bush pay no mind to the twisted metal. It's like they're saying, "We told you so. We warned you not to stay too long and now look at you." The Earth will always win.
Riding in the desert at Big Bend is wildly unique and satisfying. One thing I had to absolutely remember to do was....look around! Sometimes that was tough because I was either chasing Vince or Conrad up or down or whatever. The terrain varies. It's fast and flowy, rocky and technical, sandy and sluggish, or.....steep. Sometimes, when you're descending the rocks sound like pottery breaking on the floor. It's a sound that reminds you if you fall, it's going to badly hurt, and if you do get hurt you'll probably have to be air lifted out of there. That thought is always drifting in the back of your mind: there's no help on the way. It's just another dynamic of the desert that one must consider. On the other side of that coin though is trust. If you don't trust in the desert it will hurt you, if you don't stop and consider the desert, it will knock you down a peg or two. It is in control. It has life.
The desert allows you to fogive yourself and others. In its vastness, it reminds how small we actually are. Looking at the different colors of rocks ribboned through any given range is proof that the mountains are millions of years old and we're here and gone in a second. Watching the shadows get pushed out by the sun every morning revealing the full color bloom of the orange and white and brown rocks was a constant reminder just how alive it all is. Vince mentioned that before he took a rock from the land he offered it water. My first reaction was that felt a bit silly to do, but after a moment or two, looking around and realizing that asking permission and offering something back is apropos, I promised a written word of thanks and importance. So here we are, talking the importance of a mountain, silly right? Faith is an interesting thing. In my opinion anybody can put their faith into whatever they choose; god or gods, food, relationships, careers, Earth et cet. As long as that faith keep you framed in a set of loving/giving rules that harms nothing or nobody. One's faith should never be judged. Questioned? Sure. Judged? Never.
I'm unsure If I'll get to Big Bend again. I'ts a dedicated destination; you don't just pass through it and decide to stop. It's hard to get to. It's nowhere. I've been lucky enough to visit twice but going back in the near future seems unlikely. Each time I've visited I took full advantage of the scenery. I slept on the ground, tentless and gazed up at the Dark Sky certified stars only to watch them be devoured by the 21:30 moon. I got to ride a lot of miles on the most incredible terrain imaginable and brought enough snacks for 100 miles on a 50 mile ride. After all, when you're not worried about having enough food or water you've already won. Most importantly, I've come to know and laugh with my friends from Texas a bit more. If you ever find yourself in the desert, remember these two things: long sleeves, and one does not squander the desert's shade.
Thanks for the drawing, Vince.
601 N Sherman Ave. Madison, WI 53704
Hours: T-F 10-6, Sat 9-5, Sunday & Monday closed
Thank you for subscribing!
All Rights Reserved | Black Saddle Bike Shop
Website by MadisonWeb.Design, A CityWeb.Design Co.